.
1862. April 15
"
th
Tuesday Morng.
We rose early and made our toilet preparatory to leaving home for Europe — After looking at drawers, closets, +
memorandums to see all was safe we made our way to our Pastor's for breakfast
where we had been invited. My appetite was nearly gone ﹏ The preceding 4
or 5 wks. had been full of care, and toil to me + I know not wht. I shd.
have done had not my precious sister been with me during this time, relieving me
in various ways ﹏. She was with us to the last and left with us for Boston this morng. after saying good bye to dear ones.
Our devotions at Mrs Beane's were
very touching ﹏ The 91.st. pslm was read and there was a sacred nearness
in the promises I never felt before. The prayer was earnest and touching for our
safety + protection ﹏.
On reaching Boston we met Bro.
Willard at the depot whom I was very glad to see. We took rooms at
the American Hotel. M. + W. came +
called on us for an hour or so when the good bye kiss was given + they left
for home.
Wednesday 16
"
th
Drizzly morng.
at 9, o'clk. we left in carriage for East Boston where
we found the Steam Ship Niagara laying at her
wharf taking in freight +c. Soon friends met us on board — among whom was Cousin Wm.
Chapin + Saml. also Bro Judson Chapin, Missy Mitchell King, Carpenter, Church, Gorge
Wild, Con. and
Mr and Mrs Beane – The last two had
but a few moments before the Bell called all to leave the ship who were not
outward bound passengers ﹏ The last farewells had to be given —
These last expressions of friendship touched my heart and with deep emotion I
parted with them — God only knows whether ever to look on their faces
again or no on Earth.
The Ship was loosed from her moorings and gracefully mooved fr om down the bay – but when a little distance
out, she discharged two guns ﹏ Friends on shore and on ship were waving
hankerchiefs — Our Norton friends we cld.
discern in one group, and other friends a distance from them straining their
eyes to catch the last look of recognition ﹏. Soon it was lost to each,
and I went below to put on sea dress and prepare for that unwelcome Visitor
Seasickness tho. I had hoped to keep him at bay by the use of Homeopathy —
I hastened up to see the Harbor islands +c. At 12
we lunched then to upper deck to enjoy fresh air – About [Noon or Night?]
N time we dropped our Harbor Pilot –
and the Halifax Pilot
took command — During the P.M. we saw 3 whales sporting on Top
surface of the water not far from our ship
﹏ The P.M. was drizzly — then were introduced to a Mr Spaulding of Jamaica
Plains
a gent. of great worth and pleasing address ﹏
also to a Mr Burr – both Boston merchants going out to buy goods – most of the
passengers were English residents from Canada ﹏
Many of them Eng. Officers of the Army —. A Mr Huddy,
wife + daughter were on board from Phil
d – to make a tour to Italy ﹏
a dangerous attempt for many a poor body – so it was for me – I had
eaten but little when I ordered a cup of tea wh. proved one of the most
disturbing things I cld. call for ﹏ I was obliged to have the table and
no more return to it for some 11 days — I took my lounge in Stateroom thus
had lower birth – + the upper one we made a depot for clothing, outer
garments +c. I vomited some but by laying still and using Homeo. I did not
vomit severely — Next morng. the wind was "rather stiff north western" and
the ship rolled so much as to lead the Stewards to advise my keeping in bed wh.
I did – I have failed to mention the deep repulsion
I felt on going first into my stateroom –
It seemed more like going into my tomb – But I soon lost that sepulchred
feeling — Our Stateroom was one of the best
in the Ship — Servants very kind, and every thing furnished we could expect but my appetite craved little
﹏ I had seasons of vomiting several times a day –
18" Friday 3 d day –
I was dressed and reached upper deck where the fresh air greatly revived me. I
was there several hours — but on returning to cabin became sick again.
While on deck saw a school of Porpoise – also Sea Gull followed our Ship
﹏ At 2 this morng. we reached Halifax where we
stopped two hours to coal +c. Here we put off some 17 passengers and took
on about the same – Hus. +
Major Holman went ashore —
19
"
th
Saturday –
More weak but made desperate effort to get on deck ﹏ where I spent much of
the day. Hus. has been obliged to
succumb and come on to the diet list with me – David not sick at all –.
P.M. An Iceberg was discerned – at
first like a faint cloud but as we passed on it became perfectly apparent to the
naked Eye ﹏ It was supposed to be 60 ft high and about
6 mls. distant – It looked to me about 20 ft. high We re were approaching
the great Banks – It was early to see icebergs
– but field ice from the St. Laurence is oftened encountered but this we escaped ﹏
Sat. night was one of wakefulness to some who better knew our danger than I
– Mr Spaulding told me days after that it was
the only wakeful night to him – Fortunately the fog was not thick on the Banks –
The Gulf Stream of wh. I have heard so much we
passed North of as I understood –
20
"
th
Sab.
was clear but wind stronger – Hus.
+ I reached up. Deck for the day — had the little refreshment
we took brot. to us there at mid day –.
Religious exercises in Ding. Saloon, but we cld. not endure a closed room
—. The Episcopal Service read by the Physician of the Ship —
There were several Eng. people from St. Louis going out
to visit kindred and native land – Among them a Mr
Daniel + Son + his two young Daughters — I think the
name of the latter was Bette – One of the
daughters had been a pupil of Miss Cragin in St. Louis – also a Mr Hoyt of
Wisconsin
– Com's to the Inter–Exhibition at London
– Also a Mr Hunz T. Ropes of
Liverpool
– a resident there for
15 yrs – but a native of Salem
Mass. a pleasant man –
21
st Monday –
wind strong – ship rolling so much as to make me sick to rise – Hus. also quite sick but I think
reached the up. Deck — The guards were put on the tables ﹏ David said a goose was sliding here and a leg of mutton
there – then a cup of coffee upset in his lap — But with all this
there is a great amt. of eating done – and guzzling of wine, Brandy,
+ ale that would astonish temperance folks –
Breakfast at from 8 1/2 to 10 – Lunch at 12 at wh. hot soup, cold Meats
bread + cheese +c are furnished + "Bottles" in abundance — At 4 Dinner – Soups first then
fish – then all the variety of a River Bill of Fare ﹏ taking an
hour and a half ﹏ Seats at table are secured by your cards being pinned
on to the cloth as soon as you go on board the Ship ﹏ + those seats
are yours all the times of day — But of all the labor to get to them! I
never experienced the like – They pinch as much as possible to get room.
The Servants surpass any I remember to have seen in their gentle polite + respectful manners – Every one on
ship seems to know his place + keep it. Capt.
Cook from Halifax to Queenstown landing commands his ship – and all is so quiet!
– . + supper + Tea at 7 1/2 – supper at 9 on to 10 or 11
perhaps at wh. time I was told hot hearty
dishes were often ordered and Eaten — It was amazing to me to know of the
excessive Eating + drinking.
In the morng. porridge (as they call it) I shd. say oat meal mush is served to
those who desire it – Eaten with sugar, syrup or more commonly with the
those who are sick
– milk – at noon gruel + leaf tea ﹏ Supper the oat meal
mush again but I was so sick that a bowl of arrow root with a little drink
milk in it was
my breakfast – a bowl of leaf tea my dinner + Arrow for supper
– This was my nutriment for much of the passage with occasional at baked
greenings warm wh. were delicious I lost quite an amt. of flesh —.
22d
Tuesday –
Still growing rough – but as I was in State room all day yesterday I made great effort to get on Deck in
the P.M. – Hus. got out before
me + reached upper deck – by David's aid
﹏ when he came for me and helped me to lower deck where by holding on
+ by his help I staied half hour or so when I returned sick to my bed. Scarcily any one could walk straight
but plunged from side to side ﹏
At Eve. The Wind rose to a gale and the night was fearful – Ship rolling so
bad that my feet were often some inches higher than my head.
23 d
Wednesday –
scarcely any abatement in the wind ﹏ waves very high, but all hurrying us
on to our destined Port from 230 mlsto 266 per 24
hours —. very many sick – David still
well – Hus. I think didn't go
out of his room this day –. This ═ all written from recollection
days after the passage – Sunset + Sunrising I would look for a change
but none came – about night the wind would seem to increase in fury
– and so thro. the night –, waves several times striking over the
sides of the Ship ﹏ and a constant creaking of the joints – It
seemed to me the ship must come to pieces — but I was told there was no
apparent concern by the officers or crew, and
the creaking was the inside work[k crossed out] not the frame of the ship
﹏.
24
"
th
Thursday ═
Still the storm of wind raging ﹏ Hus. succeeded in getting on to first Deck a few hours but I still
in bed –. A Mr Kennedy from Glasgow Scotland broke his knee pan when on the upper deck, and was
brot down helpless to his room – Fortunately he is going home —. At
Eve. the winds seems higher than before —
25
"
th
Friday —
Last night was the most fearful of the 3 stormy nights ﹏ The seas that
broke on to the ship were heavier — On this morng.
about 2,O'clk. came with a fearful power on to the upper Deck over the wheel
house ﹏ The smoke stack was marked with the salt water some 20 or 25 ft
above upper deck — at the shipping* of this sea one of the sail burst from
the strength of the wind and all together the sound was like that of a cannon on
board ship — she tumbled a moment then mounted the waves and went on her
way —.
When morng. came or rather in the forenoon the wind began to abate– and I
am sure there was one grateful heart ﹏ P.M. I reached the upper Deck
where I had not been since Sab. day –.
I could find none who sympathized with me in apprehending danger to the ship
﹏ The English have a confidence in one of Cunard's Steamers that seems to set aside the
superintending providence of God – An English Lady from Toronto told me
she did'nt think one up
Cunards steamers could be wrecked at
sea. She had'nt the slightest fear — The last officer in asking me of my
health – replied to my inquiry if he did'nt call it a rough passage
– said, "not so very rough but it was a a nasty ugly sea rolling the ship making all
uncomfortable."
But during the Storm I had a good degree of quiet trust, and yet I longed for a
more sensible nearness to Christ ﹏ for that perfect love that casts out
fear.
26
"
th
Saturday ﹏
more quiet – we both on deck – P.M. I had some Ginger tea that
revived me greatly and enabled me to go to tea from which I had been absent from
1st. day –
27
"
th
Sab.
more quiet, and mild – At Break–fast "Land in Sight" was the joyful
news ﹏ It was the coast of Ireland. I sat in my room after attending
religious exercises in the Cabin which I enjoyed very much ﹏ reading my
bible + Swain Sermon on the ocean when the Major called for me to go on
Deck – I did so and the view of the Irish coast was novelm and grand
– a rockbound Coast surely —. Our ship was followed by seagulls soon
after leaving Boston – To day the numbers had
greatly increased and their calls for food were loud. We soon were able to see
Huts and discern cultivated patches – During the day saw a Church very
like our N.Eng. Churches. About 6,O'clk. We entered Queenstown Harbor Bay + even met by a little Steam Tug on wh.
all the mails (except for Liverpool) were placed – also some 15 of our
passengers + luggage – Some were
hasting on to London
+ were to go to Cork then by Rail to Dublin – then cross over to Holy head and England + then by Rail
to London getting in perhaps a day before us even had
we hastened on –. This transfer of Mails +c. was very exciting – After it was over we went
on deck to see a phosphorescent display in the water – the first we had
seen ﹏ It was not very brilliant ﹏ after wh. went to the smoke
stack and dried ourselves being wet from the hitting off steam in the Harbor
— The chimney seemed very hot — and I
felt sure they had put on all the steam they safely cld. to land before dark
— I grew quite nervous — and going back to my room I examined the
ship's Life Preservers to see wht. I cld. do with it in case of an emergency
– It seemed to me of little use to me, it was
so large — However I rummaged up some strong
twinewith wh. to tie it on + inflated my
own Life Preserver for the first time — and laid down and had considerable
sleep –.
In the morng. 28
"
th
We found we had been carried safely along, and had approached the coast of Wales. It was mild and the water still — A fog
settled down wh. detained us very much – At Queenstown we took on an Irish Pilot – who with Capt Cook
piloted the ship along – They sounded
28th of
May
often and blew the whistle + rang the
Bell so not to run against any vessel – There is much danger in the fog of
striking shipping or something else worse —.
After some hours the fog lifted and we were able to increase our speed – On
the coast of Wales we took on a Welch Pilot into whose
hands Capt. Cook resigned the ship ﹏ and if lost he would not be
responsible ﹏. After approaching within 12 mls. of Liverpool we came to
the bar and the tide being out we could not pass + had to wait 2 or 3 hours
– before we could go over the bar. About 7 we reached the Harbor of
Liverpool when were boarded by Custom H. Officers from a little Steam Tug
﹏ 3 of them – One with a plate of flour wh. he was stirring with
water for pasta –. Another taking down the name of passenger + No. of
parcels or trunks — while the 3d was
looking into the trunks +c. Unless there was reason to suppose there was
something wrong the examination was slight —. Reprints of English works,
+ sugars + tobacco calls for their greatest vigilance. This
exammination wh. shd. have taken place at the bar while we were detained took
two hours or more.
While this was going on I went down into the Cabin and watched our hand
luggage.
Ard. at Liverpool
While then our unfortunate fellow passsenger was brot. out of his room by 3 men
+ laid on a lounge ﹏ when they prepared him for leaving the ship
— Last Eve. at Quenstown his family were
telegraphed at Glasgow 500 miles – They recv. it
in the morng. and a son started by Rail immediately for Liverpool and reached
there before we did + came at once on board to his venerable father's
relief —. He was conveyed across the city on a litter – after being
put in to the little Steam Tug with the rest of us + our luggage to go
ashore — On landing we hurrided off for a carriage and after little delay
took Cab (a 4 wheel carriage with one horse) for Angel's
Hotel ﹏, having previously ordered our trunks +c to go
there by Luggage Porter.
On entering the house we found it manned by women
﹏ tastefully dressed, modest in demeanor + intelligent ﹏ They
assign the rooms, attend the bar, and in fact do all men do in our Hotels
— The porters are men– so in the Coffee rooms there are only male
attendants ﹏ who after breakfast are in full dress for dinner + Tea
— Dress Coat – suit Black with white cravat —. The Lodging
rooms are furnished with a cabinet for sickness – a luggage chain and
curtains for the bed ﹏
29
"
th
May at Liverpool
At Eve. a servant comes in, draws the curtains around the bed so you may be. thoroughly poisoned by your own breathing
﹏ Of course, I undid what they did –.
Tuesday Morng.
tho. our feet were again on terra firma yet our heads were tossing and we felt
any thing but bright ﹏ After breakfast we sallied out to see the objects
of interest – St. Georges Hall was pointed
out as one and the free museum as another. We directed our steps toward them,
and after walking some distance we engnired our way and an Eng.
Man says I recognize you as Americans — Allow me to show you St. George's Hall ﹏. We did so, and he
added very much to the interest of the visit a
and importing valuable information ﹏ The
building is massive, grand
Within are court rooms where some of their higher courts are held, also large and
small concert rooms — The height + proportions are exceedingly
magnificent ﹏ floors tessellated with marble — Massive pillars of
Aberdeeshire Marble highly polished within the building ﹏. After gazing
with admiration here we proceed ing
ed
to the Free Museum + Library ﹏ having
parted with our Eng. Stranger ﹏ with many thanks for his courtesy
﹏.
On reaching the Museum we found it was not the day for the museum to be opened
— The reading rooms were open and there we found many persons of both
sexes pouring over the books they had taken from the library ﹏.
On ascertaining the fact of the rooms being closed we expressed regret, as we
were Americans just ard. + wld. leave the next morng. On saying this
– the attendant requested we shd. wait where we were – when he went
to an officer + returned with the assurance that the rooms would be opened
for us – After looking at the Library a youth was directed to take the
Keys and pass on with us —
We were surprised to find a very extensive collection of natural curiosities of
every description, including
of the smaller animaly – Birds, fish +c
+c — Then most beautiful coral – specimens – also
beautiful aquarians ﹏.
P.M. We took carriage + with the Maj. rode some 8 or 10 mls. in pursuit of
my lost Bag wh. was finally found and brot. to me.
30
"
th
May — From Liverpool to
London.
About 10 A.M. we took seats in 1rst class cars for 35/ each﹏ and after locking us in the train set off – In a
few moments we entered a tunnel 3 mls. long. the sensation in passing thro. it
is very unpleasant —. But we soon opened on a beautiful country wh. quite
charmed us — Our own country we left with the Storility of Winter upon it,
and after crossing the cold, pitiless ocean to have such a landscape of verdun
spread put before us, with beautiful herds of horned cattle and great numbers of
sheep was truly delightful to us not yet fully recovered from Seasickness
﹏.
we passed thro. Stafford, Wolverhampton + Birmingham ﹏
on the Great North Western R. ﹏ The iron
districts about Birmingham looked very desolate +
smoky — We had 2 Ladies in the apartment with us. One nearly from Livrp. the other came in at Wolverhampton.
Ard. at Euston Station London about 6, o'clk.
after David saw his Machine safely deposited we took
Cab (4 wheels) for Wovets Hotel – Holborn
–On arg. there found rooms all engaged save one for unoccupied for 2
nights –. This we took for more leisure to look up other quarters –
David took room at Old
Furnivals Inn
alias
on
Bretts Hotel 139 Holborn — A few steps from
our Hotel – We were pleased with the appearance of
London﹏
the
attendants waiting Maids have a little cap on the
back of their heads — Those females at the Office or Bar, are dressed like
ladies ﹏ refined and apparently virtuous. The male waiters dressed as
described on pag. 13 ". I was at once presented with two letters from Lydia Fowler wh. had been awaiting my arrival
﹏
May 1.
So warm Ladies were dressed in light silks with lace capes and dress hats for the
opening of the International Exibition at the West End of
London called Kensington – Some 4
miles out — The first was held in 1851. Prince
Albert (who had from the first felt great interest in establishing
International Exhibitions) is greatly missed on this occasion ﹏ The Queen is at Balmoral Scotland
with part of her family ﹏. During the day we (3) took "Bus" + rode down near Exhibition Rooms –
We went into Kensington Museum, and look d about, and then returned, and looked for new
rooms – which we took at Old Furnivals Inn
+ removed there that Eve.
Lydia + Mr Spaulding
+ Mr Huddy fr. Phil.
called —.David went to Exeter Hall with Lydia + heard her
Husband lecture.
2 d
Friday
Hus. + I both unwell – Took
little walks but not worth much.
London —
National Gallery +c.
May 3 d﹏ American News this Morng. we have
fire in our parlor for it is cold — Hus. called on Barning Brothers +
Co. (his bankers) — in forenoon + David went to Vyse's to set up his
Patent –. P.M. Hus. felt so
unwell that he laid down – while D. + I
went to National Gallery – to see the
Paintings where we passed some 2 hours – Among the great number we find
Correggio's
Ecce Homo
– cost
£ 10,000 –
Francia's
Dead
Christ
,
P. Perugino's
Virgin + infant Christ
— cost £
4,000. +
Paul Veronese's
Magnificent, "Family
of Darius at the feet of Alexander"
﹏ cost £
14,000.
One room is devoted to "Turner the greatest Master of Lanscape Art" – It is
surprising that he accomplished so much as was there Exhibited – +
yet that did not begin to be the sum of his work – He was an English
Artist + his remains are deposited in the crypt of St. Pauls ﹏. So are those of Benj
West + other distinguished artists and many monuments to Naval
+ Military Heroes – I was glad to After
seeing the paintings + returning to the St. we saw one of the Royal
Carriages with rich bands of gold and the harnesses richly plated with gold
﹏ the coachman + the two footman on back seat were in black –
Breeches+ Blk. stockings + gloves — with cocked hats +
straight Blk. feathers + grey hair wigs — The Crown Prince of Prussia had just alighted
4 May — Sabbath day ﹏
and passed up
to the Royal Academy where he had been invited to
dine. We stood a few moments to see the nobility arrive + pass up the
stairs – Their servants in Livery — some in scarlet breeches +
white stockings. —
4
"
th
Sab.
We 3 went to hear Rev. Mr
Spurgeon His text was Ep.3.10. I was much interest in his simple but
powerful presentation of truth ﹏ to an audienc of 6000 persons —
and when the all sang it was a sound unlike what I ever before heard – No
Organ – P.M. Evg. we went to hear Rev Dr Cumin in Crown Court.
His lecture was a review of the last eleven years showing the fulfilment of
prophecy ﹏.
6
"
th
Tuesday
we 3 went to Luton +
back at Eve – 32 mls. out – where a pop. of some 20,000 are mostly
employed in one way or another in Strawḏ braid — At this place we
found chalk formations 2 or 3 feet be – neath the surface of the earth.
When they dug into an embankment it gave us a free view of it. By great Northern R.R. Station at Kings Cross.
7
"
th
We set off early for Shorediditch station to go
by rail to Woolwitch where an arsenal and Manufactory
of Arms War Vessels +c. We passed thro. Spittalfields where there are many weavers of beautiful silks +
velvets.
1862 –
Woolwich — May 7
"
th
On reaching the Terminus of the R.R. we crossḏ the Thames River in a little Steam Tug. Just as we reached Woolwich it
began to rain and we went to the
"Royal Mortur Tavern"
when my Hus. called for a parlor – They replied, do you
wish to dine – He said to them wanted a parlor – It was 10, O'clk.
perhaps here – They said they had no
parlors but had dining rooms + aided us into one where I sat till toward
one P.M. My gent. being out to see the soldiers and Japanese Ambassadors
—
At this time the rain poured down and the Landlady came and said to me She shd. like to have me leave – She wanted her room for
persons to eat in – + she cld. not afford to have persons sitting
round. I told her we wished to pay her for the use of her room ﹏ That my
gent. were then out + I hopeḏ wld. come soon – She waited a
few moments + then came again and aided me into another eating room –
I had sat there but a few minutes when she came with a man to eat there, bring a
trumble of Ale along to drink – She repeated the request I shd. leave the
room and aided me to a little back bedroom where she said I cld. be undisturbed.
My heart was quite chickinesh + full but I
kept apparently quiet and before long Mr.
W. came and went to the Hostiss to pay her for her room but she
8
"
th
Thursday — St. Paul
—
declined taking anything and we left in the rain falling most
profusely — We could not get a carriage ﹏ after taking shelter
awhile we reached the Ferry Boat + thence to Cars – + finally
home to our joy having learned some new lessons — As we were at dinner
Mr Spaulding called previously to leaving for
France.
8
"
th
Thursday P.M.
We went to St. Paul's. The Choral Service was then
being performed as we entered, and the sound as it reverberated from its high
arches seemed as I have imagined the Heavenly strains might, to a soul just
released from its clay tenenment — It sounded distant + ethereal
– But as we approached the choir, the sound was more distinct – In
the form of A Latin Cross ﹏
A sketch of St. Paul, the diagram is in the shape of a Latin cross.
To the east she uses parallel lines of black dots encompassing the
choir, and to the West the end of the cross is significantly longer; the
parallel lines are solid with Nave written in between. The "south" part
of the transept is towards the top of the page, and the "north" transept
is directly opposite.
The cathedral from east to west is 500 ft long – Length of choir
165 ft. Breadth of Transept 250 ft. Height from 1rst floors to top of cross on
Dome 352 [1/12] ft. As we stand in the Transept and look up to the Dome (inside)
340 ft, it i grand beyond the power of language to describe ﹏. If this is
the work of man what is God! the great architect of the world + of man who
is crushed before him like a moth – After religious exercises we went into
the crypt ﹏ (the basement) and this was wonderful as is
was the
superstructure﹏ It is beside the light of some low windows, lighted
St. Pauls Cathedral — May 8
"
th
with gas ﹏ and divided off by iron fences + guarded
by locks .The objects of special interest were the mortal remains of Lord Nelson + the Duke of Wellington –
﹏. Lord Nelson is in a black marble sarcophagus. of black marble He died in battle at Trafalgar﹏ + his memory appears to be warmly cherished
by the many statues erected to him ﹏ The Duke of Wellington's remains are in a Cornish Porphyry ﹏ Sarcophagus
﹏ They were first laid in a pine coffin made by his own carpenter at
Wulmar his Marin residence – (I think)– then placed in a lead coffin
of twice the usual thickness + this in a coffin of English Oak handsomely
finished. The outer coffin or case was of solid Spanish Mahogany, covered with
the richest crimson Genoa velvet. This case was elaborately panneled +
wrought out emblematical of his achievements + honors ﹏. The central
inscription plate is gilt and bears the following! "The Most High, Mighty, and
Most Noble Prince Arthur, Duke + Marquis of Wellington, Marquis of Douro,
Earl of Wellington, Viscount Wellington of Talavara and of Wellington, and Baron
Douro of Wellesly, Knight of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, Knight Grand
Cross of the Most Honorable Order of the Bathe one of the Majesty's Most
Honorable Privy Council, and Field – Marshall and Commander–in
–Chief of Her Majesty's forces. Born 1rst May 1769: Died 14" September
1852." copied from guide book, and a Most Extraordinary inscription for mortal
man it is.
As I stood beside him I could but think what a leveller
death is ﹏ There I stood beside the Great
Hero ﹏ + the worms no doubt have presumed to feed on his flesh
– In his heart he may have been simple and childlike – but he was
one Providence chose to workout for the kingdom great deliverance and thro. him to
crush Napoleon ﹏ But a Biographer of him says that thro. him Europe
enjoyed nearly 40, forty years of peace ﹏.
In this crypt are deposited many other distinguished persons — Among them
are the remains of Sir Christopher Wren the + builder Archtect of St Paul ﹏ The
first stone was laid June 21. 1675 service was first performed in it Dec.2.1697
﹏ and the last stone on the summit of the lantern, was laid by the
architect's son in 1710. The Edifice was thus finished in 35 years ﹏
standing on the spot where was a cathedral of the
same name founded in the 7
"
th
Century – which was even longer than the
present Edifice ﹏ 690 ft. In those ages it was used by
Roman–Catholics ﹏ But in 1552 Nov. 1. the Reformation had
penetrated England so far as at this time to have every vestige of Romanism put
aside and the Book of Common Prayer used – Bishop Ridley preaching on the
occasion: This old Edifice was destroyed in the Great fire of 1666. ﹏ The
total cost of the present St. Paul's was £
747, 954 ﹏ 2s-gd. But doubtless thousands of
pounds more have since been expended ﹏
St. Pauls — May 8
"
th
– 1862 —
In the crypt are the remains of Turner + Benj West that I have before mentioned ﹏ —
and in the walls of the Cathedral, in the choir aisles Transepts +c are
numerous monuments + tablets to the Memory of English Heroes and one to the
Philanthropist John Howard + to Bishop Hebar.
After looking at the monuments we ascended to the Whispering
Gallery
Sunday May 11
"
th
Morng. we went to hear Rev. Baptist Noel ﹏ Who
is a Bapist in sect but one w Chh. of Eng. Minister + of high birth
﹏ But he ignored all the honors of the world and
followed the teachings of God + of conscienc ﹏ His Chh. is small
tho. well filled and very attentive listeners save the coughing that is very common in assemblies. Text Matt. 7 – 24
+ after — I think I never heard so simple a Gospel sermon ﹏
yet well expressed.
P.M. We went to West Minister Abbi where "Rev. Lord John Thyme preached but we could hear but
little ﹏ Will speak of the Abbie at my
future visit.
12
"
th
Monday Eve.
Removed from "Old Furnivals" to 72 Sloane St. op.
Cadogan Gardens where we had engaged
"apartments" for us 3 ﹏ A. parlor Bedroom
+ dressing room on one floor for Hus. + self + Bedroom on upper floor for David.
Miss E. Symons is at the head of the establishment
They have 5 families I am told – but I have not seen them – We eat
in our parlor – order such food as we please + pay the bills with
room rent ﹏ or if we choose to buy ourselves we do:
13 Tuesday –
I wrote 3 or 4 hours to Martha + left it on table
with other letters Hus. + I had
written ﹏ When we went down Town He picked them up to put them in the
office – But on getting there he found he was minus the American letters
– Search was made at home but no trace of it ﹏.
Wednesday 14
"
th
— May
—
I have not felt so sad since leaving America. My heart was much stirred by
writing home yesterday. My body is weak and I feel down spirited – I would
love to bow with some of those dear sisters that I have been want to meet at a
throne of grace. But I have bowed with no one since leaving Boston only in the
public assembly ﹏ And O, what occasion for thanks–giving +
praise for God's goodness and long. suffering, have we had to us as
individuals!
Towards night Lydia called – Hus. + David out
nearly all day ﹏ Eve. Mr + Mrs Muntz
+ Miss Parker called + spent the Eve.
16
"
th
Friday –
Hus. + I visited the Tower ﹏ David
was engaged + cld. not go with us –A warden in the Costume of Henri
VIII"s guard conducts visitors about – It is one of the most
interesting of Old London relics, and dates back at least to the Eleventh
Century ﹏ The
White Tower is in the centre of the enclosure – It
measures 116 ft from North to So. 96 ft from East to West – Height 92 ft.
external walls 15ft. in thickness – 4 towers on this – one at each
corn [trails off] Beside the
White T. there are 12 smaller Towers They were originally
intended as a place of defence in times of attack by foreign foes – The
White T. was fitted for a residence ﹏ religious and governmental purposes but was
converted with the other towers into prisons for offending subjuicts ﹏
The most dreadful scenes have been enacted
here.
Tower — 16
"
th
May.
The
party in power seemed filled with Hellish rage, and for the slightest suspicions
would arrest, condemn + execute Kings + Quens and Nobles in these
Towers + Tower gards ﹏ In of them is
supposed to have taken place the murder of the two Royal children of Edward 4
– by their Uncle Richard 3
d
. There also Lady Jane Grey + her Husband suffered
imprisonment + death — also Queen Anne Boleynn Wife of Henry 8" who had her beheaded + the following
day took another Wife — Jane Seymore – He was a wretch of deepest
dye —.
I saw the very block on which many of these victims rested their necks for decapitation and the very ax that did the
work —. The
Guide Book
will give farther
particulars ﹏ These Towers are now used as depositories of arms and
ancient armour. The
Steel Clad Kings
in full size
are mounted on their
Steel Clad Horses
— and
all the variety of weapons used in ancient war–fare are found here
–. It is strongly garrisoned — One of the Towers is used for the
Crown Jewels
–"The Collection is
surmounted by the crown of the present beloved Queen
Victoria The cap of purple velvet is enclosed in hoops of silver
surmounted by a ball + cross all of which
Tower – May 16
"
th
1862 —
are resplendent with diamonds. In the center of the
cross is the "inestimable sapphire" + in
front of the crown is the heart shaped ruby said to have been worn by the Black
Prince." 2 ḏ Is
St. Edward's crown
made of
Gold + Embellished with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. 3ḏ
Is the
Prince of Wales Crown
formed of pure gold
+ unadorned — The present Prince of Wales
has not yet had it placed on his head –
4" The ancient
Queen's Crown
is used at
Coronations for Queen Consort ﹏ which is rich
5" Is the
Queen's Diadem
. which was made for the
Consort of James 2 d Marie D'Este. It is richly
adorned with large diamonds + pearls. Beside these are several sceptres of
beaten gold adorned with jewels. There too is
St. Edward's
staff
of beaten gold 4 ft 7 inches long. It is carried
before the King or Queen at coronation. There is also the pointless sword,
Sword of Mercy
–
+ the swords of Justice civil + Ecclesiastical – which are
borne before the Sovereign at Coronation – There
too were Coronation bracelets – the annoiting vessel + spoon all used
at Coronation then beneath these crowns + sceptres is a Baptismal fount
used at the Christening of the Royal children and a Massive Sacremental service
all of solid gold used at the same August ceremony — beside several pieces
I have not named"
17
"
th
May ﹏ Crystal Palace at Sydenham
On saturday we visited, with Mr + Mrs Muntz,
Miss Parker + Mr +
Mrs Henderson. Some 7 miles out of London – by Rail ﹏.
The Palace so magnificent – filled with evrything that is beautiful in the
fine arts Paintings, Music, Flowers, + Plants from evry part under Heaven
(almost – and the spacious grounds ornamented with shrub + trees in
bloom – and fount Sending up its pearly jets of water all combine to make
it one of the most fairy like places I had ever conceived — It seemed paradisaical ﹏.
18
"
th
Sunday –
18" Sunday – we 3 went to St. Giles– cripple gate to worship ﹏
on our way there passing thro. Smithfield where John
Rogers was burned at the stake ﹏ John Milton's remains rest under this
Church. A few minintz walk from there brot. us to the Wesleyan Chapel where John Wesley preached – I sat in the
chair he used in his study and went into the Pulpit where he preached with such
power. Just back of the Chapel rest his remains under a Neat Monument
–
Beside him lay the remains of Adam Clarke
and a few steps around the corner we found Whitfield's Chapel into which we went + into
the Pulpit ﹏. In the corridor we found a fine original portrait of
Whitfield [Whitefield]– He died in Newbury port
–Mass + his remains rest in a vault under (Mr Stearns)(that was)
a Church
wh. has a Whis–pering Gallery in it. I saw them many years ago and took
the skull in my hands – a liberty that should never be allowed with the
sainted dead –. Opposite the Wesleyan
Chapel is Bunhill field's Cemetery
– Where rest the remains of John Bunyan Isaac Watts Mrs Wesley, (Mother of
John + Charles) and Defoe. author of Robinson Crusoe
– sometimes called Alexander Selkirk ﹏
On the following Wednesday we attended the consecration of a new monument to John
Bunyan at Bunhill Fields – where Lord
Thaftsbury presided + made an interesting speech ﹏ also Rev. Mr Spurgeon whom I like exceedingly ﹏.
19
"
th
Monday
Hus. + I visited Regents park ﹏ we were both very tired when
we reached there and did not enjoy the Zoological
Gardens as we should under other circumstances – + as we
shd. had we not just been to Crystal Palace
—.
20
"
th
Tuesday –
Westminster
Abbie
—
We visited this ancient structure entering at "Poet's
Corner". Two weeks before this, we had entered it an opposite part
while Divine Worship was being held, and the effect on my mind I can never tell
﹏ It is unlike St. Paul's – not
less grand perhaps, but more of the beautiful and the awe inspiring, as the
light dimly falls on you, from the stained glass windows, and you looked on the
worshipping assembly, and hear the chanting of the choir with the heavy notes of
the organs – and then cast your eye around the walls and notice the marble
forms erect – as monuments to the departed but more especially as you gaze
on numerous Effigies (forms of the dead full
length, laid horizontally on tombs that contain the original) are you impressed
with un utterable feelings those never experienced before — Man's genius
has indeed made it wonderful ﹏ wonderful in its architecture —
wonderful in its finish. The touch of time on the Edifice enters your soul
﹏and Death's trophies gathered from crowned heads, and the Kingdom's
Nobility liing buried about you, all conspire to fill the
mind with new emotions ﹏.
On this morng. we entered at the Poet's corner and
comd. looking for familiar names. There we found tablets on monuments to Ben. Johnson – Milton
– Shakespare, Goldsmith, T. Cambell, R. Southy, E. Spencer
– [ink blot] Ge Draiton – Chauncer — + many other Poets – also
of Lord Macauley the Historian ﹏.
Westminister Abbie – May 20
"
th
The Abbie is nearly opposite the Houses of Parliament – which stand on the banks of Thames River – The old Abbie is said to have been
built in 604 by Sibert – king of the East Saxons – It appears this
Abbie was nearly destroyed when Edward the Confessor visited Rome and was
induced to build a Monastery in honor of St. Petre – which he did on the
spot of the old one or perhaps connecting it with the old one + dedicated
it in 1065 ﹏ on which day he was taken sick which, illness terminated his
life + in a few days his remains were deposited in the Chapel with great
pomp. There were seasons after this that it was suffered to go to partial ruin,
and then sovereigns would arise that would repair and add to its former beauty
﹏. There are some 9 or 10 Chapels ﹏ where repose — the dead
from Edward the Confessor down for centuries ﹏ In the Chapel of Henry
7
"
th
I found a monument to "Mary Stuart Queen of
Scotts," erected by her son James I. when he came to the Throne – He
succeedid Queen Elizabeth who imprisoned "Mary Stuart Queen of Scotts for some
17 years + finally had her beheaded ﹏ in the Northhamptonshire
Feb. 8– 1587 from which James I. brot. had the remains privately brot. to the Abbie
under the superintendance of the Dean of Westminister. In the same Chapel the Royal Vault where are the remains of Charles II.
died 1685 – William III. Died 1702 + Mary his Consort who died 1694
– + Queen Anne 1714 – In the nave of the same chapel is another
Royal Vault where this Majestis George II. + Queen Caroline + several
of the Royal family.
Westminister Abbie
Here too is the magnificent tomb of Henry 7
"
th
+ Elizabeth his Queen
– the last of the House of York who wore the English Crown — Near
these is a monument to the Duke De Montpensier whose remains are beneath –
descended from the Kings of France 2 d son of the
Duke of Orleans + Brother to Louis Phillip by whom the monument was erected
– Died 18
"
th
May –1807– aged 31. An Exile from his country
but recd. with Hospitality by the Eng. Nation" and allowed to rest in this
asylum for Kings." In the North Aisle of the same Chapel is a monument to Queen
[s over a line] Elizabeth erected by James I. her succesor – who died 1602
aged 70 – and who reigned 45 years — Queen Mary whose reign proceded
that of Quen Elizabeth is interred under the Same Monument – At the
farther End of this is a vault containing the remains of James I. + his
Queen Anne (Daug. of Fredk. II. of Denmark. James reigned over Scotland
59 many years + our Eng.22 as says the
guide– near hers is a vault containing what is supposed to be the bodies
of the Princes Henry V + Richard Duke of York (children smothered in the
Tower by their Uncle Richard III. After being hidden 19. yrs in the rubbish of
the tower stairs then recovered by Charles II. + deposited away the relics
of their predesessors —.
Abbie Continued
Chapel of St. Edward is another of great interest
the shrine of St. Ed. stands in the centre of the Chapel + was erected by
Henry III. in 1269 – St. Ed. died 1065. Pope Alexander III. caused his
name to be placed in the catalogue of Saints. In this chapel are more Kings
+ Queens restings then in any other – Here too are the
Coronation
Chairs
. The most ancient of them is made to
enclose the stone
(which is reported to be
Jacob's Pillar)
brot. with
regalia from Scotland by Edward I. offerid St. Edward's shrine after he had been successful in
several battles in Scotland – In this chair all
the reigning sovereigns have been crowned since Edward I. The other chair was
made for Queen Mary II. The Chair is taken out and
placed before the Altar behind which they now stand + covered with gold
tissue when the coronation takes place — After looking at these famous chairs the party with the
verger passed the other side of the shrine when all of a
sudden the verger turned back + exclaimed "I shd'nt have
thot.﹏ you wld. have done that the moment my eye was off from you"–
I looked back + lo!!! there was
my
Husband
just looking up the railing that enclosed the
coronation
chair
–He had been + taken a seat in it tho. I imagine it was a short sitting ﹏ When we told our guide
outside of the Abbie he exclaimed almost with
horror that he did'nt suppose one in 10,000 did it.
Continued
In the North Aisle of the church are deposited the remains of Thomas F Buxton
+ William Wilberforce ═ colaborors for the overthrow of slavery
in the British Dominians and they both lived to see it accomplished — To
each are seperate Monuments — That of Wilberforce is a statue of him on a pedas–tal –
expression of great peace –.
May 22 d
Tunnel
A clear cool morng. after going to Holborn about
clothes for Hus. we took cab for
London Bridge where we went on little
Steamer which soon put us down in the vicinity of
Thames Tunnel
﹏ Soon we were
making our descent by winding stairs – The opening or circle for the
stairs is quite roomy and light. There was some one below playing a French Horn
that dissipated what un pleasant feeling hung about the descent. The pictures I
have seen of it are very correct. inthe The Tunnel is lighted
with gas. There are two tunnels, but only one of them open + lighted. They
unite wrapping on the north + Rotherhithe on the South of the
Thames ﹏. It is only for foot passengers – Toll 1 penny.
It was comd. on the so. side in June 24". 1824 under Sir J. Burnst Engineer
﹏ It was a work of great magnitude as well as danger. The work was
effected by means of a powerful apparatus of iron designated a "Shield" wh.
consisted of 12 great frames, lying close to each other; each frame 22 ft. high
+
3 ft. wide;
each frame had 3 divisions, thus presenting 36 chambers or cells for the
workmen. Powerful as this was great danger attended the excavation from the
effect of the tides on some portion of the strata in the bed of the river
– By Apr. 30" 1827 the tunnel had advanced 400 ft. and with the double
archways was substantially completed in brickwork in 10 months. On May 18"/27
+ in Jay
28 1828 the River broke in + filled the tunnel
in less than 10 minutes, + the rush the water made caused so great a
current of air as to put out the lights +
Hampton Courtd Tunnel
when 6 of the workmen were unable to extricate themselves
+ were drowned – For some distance Mr Brummel (Jr.) struggled in
total darkness + the rush of the water carried him up the shaft this break
occurred 600 ft from the shaft, within 25ft. of the channel of the river –
leaving 700ft still to be executed — No less than 4000 tons of soil, principally clay in bags, were required to
fill the chasam. When the tunnel was cleared of the water then the structure was found in a sound state. From this time
the work was suspended 7 years when it was against
comd. + continued till completed and opened for foot passengers on March
25" 1843.
Length of Tunnel 1200ft. – width 38 ft. 22ft. 6 inches in height ﹏
Total cost £ 468,000 or $2340,000
24
"
th
May.
Saturday we took guide (John Wittle)and went by Great South Rail
into
Houses of
Parliament. It was open for the inspection of visitors and went thro.
the open rooms ﹏ I will only briefly notice them, and refer to the
guide book
— The Building is
magnificent in its externally + internal structure + finish becoming the reason for
which it is founded. The Royal Gallery leading from the Queen's Robing Room to the House of Lords is 110ft long, 45
ft wide + 45ft high. On the opining of Parliment seats are raised on either
side of this room for ladies the Public enter and
see the Queen as she passes thro. on to the Princes Chamber or as it is
otherwise called
Parliment Houses. May 24 – 1862
Victoria Hall where some of the Lords are in waiting
to receive Her Majesty and aid her into the House of Lords— a is the
Robing Room B. is the
This drawing is rectangular and is about half the width of the
page. It is a diagram showing the royal gallery and how it connects the
Queen's Robing Room with the House of Lords. Eliza Wheaton writes the
letter "a" inside of a square room to the left of the Royal Gallery
representing the Robing Room. The letter "B" is written in a square room
to the right of the Royal Gallery representing the waiting hall or
Prince's chamber. The letter "C" is written upon a sky-view version
drawing of a half-moon representing the Throne which is right next to
the square room of "B". The letter "i" is written upon a drawing of the
"woolsack" which is the seat of the Lord High Chancellor, who presides
over the House of Lords marked "D". Also in the drawing are benches
drawn by small, short lines suggesting that the Lords sit in front of
and to the left of the Lord High Chancellor.
waiting hall or Princes Chamber –C. is the the Throne ﹏ which is
elevated by three steps covered with carpet of richest velvet– of bright
scarlet + the pattern composed of roses + lions alternately ﹏ A
gold cold. fringe borders the carpet. The canopy to the Throne is divided into
three compartments. The central one is much higher than the others, for Her
Majesty. That on her right hand is for the Prince of Wales and that on the left
is for the Prince Consort – Now forever vacated by him—The panneling
pa back of this compartment is most exquisite
executed so is the state chair or throne for description see
guide
Bk.
i Is the woolsack – a seat for the Lord High
Chancellor who presides over the House of Lords (marked "D" —.) Why it ever had that name I have not able to learn
— It is a seat perhaps 16 in. high –
5ft long and 22 inches wide –stuffed + covered with crimson scarlet cloth — and in midway of the
seat in length + breadth is a little back elevated about 6 or 8 inches high
+ 12 long —.
Some of the Frescoing in the different rooms interested me very much ﹏
among wh. were
the Meeting of
Wellington
+
Blucher at the battle of Waterloo
— + the
embarkation of our Pilgrim fathers on board the May Flower
—
Hampton Court
—
24
"
th
After a hasty look at the Parliment
Houses
John Whittle guided us
to Hampton Court Palace – on the northern
bank of the Thames – 12 miles west from Hyde Park —
Cardinal Wolsey at the summit of his power conceived the idea of building this
palace which when completed he did not long enjoy, before he gave it to Henry 8"
to save his head who had become jealous of
such magnificence that surpassed Royalty — This Palace was erected in the 15
"
th
century –
Henry 8" took posession of it –+ here began the weal +
war of Royalty in this Palace ﹏ the amount of the
latter we cannot well estimate ﹏ the guide speaks of Edward 6
"
th
being
born here 12
"
th
Oct 1537 and his Mother Jane Seymore (wife of Henry 8
"
th
) only
survived his birth but a few days –. On the day of the marriage Henry
8
"
th
to Jane Seymore, Anne Bolynn His 2d Queen
was executed at the Tower — Two other Queens at least Anne of Cleaves
4
"
th
wife + Catherine Howard 5
"
th
wife shared the same fate of Anne
Bolynn ﹏ He was a monster of cruelty ﹏ Edward 6
"
th
his son became
to the throne at the age of 9 + died at 16 – a youth of piety +
amiability ﹏ His cousin Jane Grey succeeded him + reigned 10 days
+ there deposed and subsequently beheaded —
Hampton Court Palace 24
"
th
May
Elizabeth being Queen this Palace was occupied by her and
exhibited scenes of great festivity as in the days of Henry 8
"
th
– James
I. and on to George 2 d the reigning Sovereigns
resided here – more or less – but George 2d was the last to occupy it – It is now occupied by a "decayed
gentry" to some extent – about 500 persons here. But the state apartments
are as they formerly were for Exhibition, and I gained an idea of Royalty that I
had not, when entering the Palace. After ascending the stair case and noticing
the frescoing we entered the King's guard chamber 60 by 37 ft + 30 ft. in
height– the walls of wh. had some paintings and portions of them covd by
arms of various sorts arranged in figures – On leaving wh. we entered "the
Kings first Pres–ne͈ ence Chamber then to "the Audience Chamber" ne͈
there to the King's Drawing Room – then to King Wm. 3d Bed Room – in wh. last is placed the state
bed – of Queen Charlotte ceiling in fresco
represent night + morng.> ﹏ and
There are various articles of furniture suitable
for such a room beside being hung with Portraits of Charles IId court and other paintings —. + ne͈
where is a canopy represent one which covered the
throne ﹏ There were in this + the other rooms massive Chandeliers
made of solid silver – which with the beautiful cut glass presented great
richness —. The furniture to considerable extent was left in the rooms
– all the walls coverd with paintings many
Hampton Court —
of
which were from celebrated ancient Painters ﹏. + or
cross From the King's Bed Room we entered the Kings Dressing Room
the ceiling of which as are all the others painted in fresco by Verrio — From this we enter the Kings waiting
closet – then to Queen Mary's closet from which we enter her Majesty's
Gallery – a room of large extent and containing some fine + very old
portraits –. From this we enter the Queen's Drawing Room – the walls
of which were hung with Paintings by West . From Each
of these Rooms are most enchanting views of the grounds ﹏
From the Queens Drawing Room we enter the Queens Audience Chamber — in
which Queen Mary's State Canopy of rich damask silk still remains —. The
walls covered with paintings + ceiling frescoed ﹏ From this we enter
the "Public dining Hall", where doubtless have been seated of greatest
festivities ﹏. The paintings here as I remember them were of less
interest than in the preceding rooms — From this "Ding. Hall we passed on
to "the Prince of Whales Presence Chamber" "to the Prince of Wales Drawing Room" to
the "Prince of Wales Bed room " – into the "Ante Room" to "the Queen's
Private Chapel" – then into the "Closet near the Chapel" opening into "the
Private Dining Room" in" wh. are now placed, the state Beds of King Wm. 3d + his Queen Mary: also the Bed used by King
George 2d where he resided in this Palace".
24
"
th
May
– Hampton Court Palace —
From the Private Ding. Room we pass into a closet opening into the Queens Private Chamber – then to the King's Private Dressing Room, which was hung with
tapestry, representing the Battle of Solebay. Here
also were fine Old Dlf Vases brot. to Eng. by Wm 3d
In the centre of the room is a very fine Marble Bust of a Negro, supposed to be
a favorite servant of his Majesty the walls
covered with paintings as are all the rooms "thro.
wh. we have passed — From this we enter George 2
d's private chamber– from which
passing thro. a closet we enter a large room containing
"Cartoons
by Raphel"
designed about the
year 1520 according to the Orders of Pope Leo.X. and are a sires of subjects
taken from the life of our Savior + the Acts of the apostles — They
were sent to the famous Manufactory Arras (Flanders to be copied into Tapestry
in her sets – one to decorate the Vatican + the
other a present to Henry 8". "They cost between 60 + 70 thousand crowns
of gold." They are very large — The 1rst represents
Death of
Amania*
2d
"Elymas the Sorcerer"
. 3 d
"Petre
+
John at the Beautiful
Gate
." 4
"
th
"Miraculous Draft of
fishes
." 5
"
th
"Paul + Barnabas at
Lystra"
6
"
th
Paul preaching at Athens
– 7
"
th
"Christ's Charge to
Peter."
The seven cover the Walls of large Room +
are gazed upon with intense interest by Artists — They are painted on sheets of paper presenting the
appearance of one large sheet –.
From this we pass into an "Ante Room" to "the Portrait Gallery" on to "the
Queen's Stair Case" thro.
–
Continued
to the Queen's Guard Chamber – thro. an
Ante═ Room to "the Queen's Presence Chamber" to the "Great Hall" a
splendid gothic Hall, designed by Wolsey + finished by Henry 8" –
It is 106ft. long – 40 ft. wide + sixty feet high –. The roof
is very elaborately carved + hung richly
decorated with arms + badges of Henry 8" –. This was finished when
Ann Boleyn was in the height of favor ﹏ It was used as a Theatre during
the reigns of Elizabeth + James I. also by Georg –d it was filled up and used as a Theatre + hw
were
first acted some of Shakespeare's plays — During the reign of George 4
"
th
the
Parish of Hampton obtained per–mission to fit it up for divine Service
during the rebuilding of their church –
These high walls are covered with fine specimen of
Arras tapestry in 8 compartments The 1.st
represents
"God appearing to Abraham,"
2d
"Birth of Isaac."
3d
Abraham sending his servant to seek a wife for
Isaac–"
4
"
th
Egyptians sending away
Abram. + Sar. with Gifts
– 5
"
th
Abram. entertaining three Angels
–
6
"
th
Abram. purchasing the care of Mac–pelah
– 7"
Abram. + Lot parting
—
8"
Abram. offe. up Isaac
. At the End of this Hall
is the "With Drawing Room" which is also hung with tapestry + pictures
making it a place of interest — This closes the tour of apartments open to
the Public + we return + descend to the court from which opens the
Gardens – which with the wil–derness and Palace are 3 mls. in extent
– The Palace covers 8 acres ﹏. The grounds are very beautiful —
Kew
Gardens +c.
We saw the the famous
Blk. Hamburgh
grape vine that last season bore 1400 lbs grapes + some seasons has borne
2500 bunches — After strolling about the grounds we past out to Bushy Park opposite + took omnibus for Kew Gardens in Richmond
– which we found very interesting – but we had attempted too much
for one day and the green Houses were closed before we entered them. Near one of
them we saw "Mary Princess of Cambridge" walking
– She is about 30 yrs of age I shd. think – a fleshy wholesome
looking lady — She is sister to the Duke of
Cambridge who resides in London – She + her Mother we
the
Duchess of Cambridge reside near the Gardens ﹏
Shis is cousin to the Queen, Victoria. ﹏ This
was saturday Eve. and we returned by R.R. a thoroughly tired party.
25
"
th
we went to hear Mr. Spurgeon – It is a rich
priviledge to hear him – Text Deut. 32–9–Lam. 3ḏ
–24. Eve. we went to Trevor Chapel to hear Mr Staturn
(Epis) a handsome and apparently a vain man.
27
"
th
arrived letters from Martha + George – bringing joyful news of Victories ﹏ but of her
health + that of some of the neighbors it is sad – she has raised
blood + Mr West + Mr
Hunt are quite low –. Poor Mrs Story
too, is even a greater sufferer then when we left home.
28
"
th
We went to Madam Tussaud's Rooms– filled
with life like wax figures — The Guide Bk.
Mad. Tussaud's Rooms.
will do more justice to them then I possibly can — I
enjoyed them exceedingly — Saw many pieces of furniture, articles of
toilet + of Dress, Carriages +c. that were Napoleon 1rst – There
was his war coach in which he went to Russia, and to
the Battle of Waterloo when it was taken by Wellington
– It had every imaginable convenience — A place for Sleeping on
small cot– for eating + writing – It was no larger then many of English Nobility use
– There too was the coach he used at the time of his coronation, both of
which I took seats in ﹏ There was another he used at St. Helena+ which was the last one he ever rode in
﹏.
29
"
th
Thursday
we went out by Great West. R. to Windsor Castle ﹏ 22 mls. from London + 14 miles from Hampton Court
Palace. It was an unforable* day for us – notice having
appeared in the papers that it would be the last day for the Palace to be
opened, as Her Majesty was expected to return from Balmoral on the following day — Consequently, multitudes of
strangers in London like ourselves, were intent on improving this opportunity
for visiting it the Palace, it being the home of
the Queen, usually from Oct. to February. I am fully
unprepared to give a just account or description
of the Castle for two reasons — one reason,
there was such a croud that
Windsor Castle – May 29"
we could not get a good view of the rooms and the Guide seemed
in a hurry somewhat, to take us from our room to another, tho. he was
exceedingly courteous, and ready to answer questions – but with these
disadvantages I did not take time to look at the different views from the several rooms as I now wish I had — But
from those I did look from, they opened into the court + presented nothing
but stow for
traverse
and battlements
﹏
The second reason why I cannot do justice to the description is that I saw it
under great dissappointment ﹏ I had no thot. of seeing a Castle – True it was called so, but then I
supposed it was not – but a Palace of great beauty with extensive Parks
+ lawns with flocks resting upon them, as about Buckingham Palace – all bespeaking repose and beauty —
But instead of that, the gray towers with its strong battlements loomed up
before me bespeaking any thing but peace in its erection ﹏ or even in its
present posession, as two Regiments of soldiers are stationed about the Castle,
tho. only a small portion are visible (from any one point) to act as Sentinels
﹏. But as I entered the enclosure I could not divest myself of the feeling that we were in a
Fortress, and that the Queen might live there it
seemed more like a prisoner than a Queen –
who was thus guarded ﹏. There was the mounted cannon – and the
embrazures + under
over George 4
"
th
's Gateway were apertures for
pouring down melted lead on the besieging enemy.
The fortress or castle was commenced by William
the Conqueror soon after he usurped the throne, he regarding it us a favorable
position for military defence ﹏ subsequent Kings enlarged, strengthened
+ beautified it till it has become the massive pile it is ﹏. Our
guide tell s us that it has
been a favorite residence with the sovereigns.
We approached the door that led to the state apartments when our gent
–deliverd up the Ticket of Admission + recording his name we passed
on to "Queen's Audience Chamber" where a gentlemenly guide was awaiting us
+ explained the pictures — The ceiling was in fresco by Verrio and the walls were decorated with the finest
specimens of Goblin
Holbein?
Tapestry up—. Queen Esther + Mordecai
═ also several Portraits. From this room we passed into the vandyck
Room, formerly called the Ball Room – The room is embellished by paintings
from this artist – Van dyck— From this we passed on to the State ante Room – Queen's Drawing Room where
are Paintings by Luccareli– the finest
specimens of this great master —
Windsor Castle —
The hangings
are of crimson silk damask upon wh. are
displayed the Royal Arms of Wm. 4" + Queen
Adelaide – From this we entered the State Ante Room. Ceiling frescoed by
Verrio– several pieces of Tapestry on the
Walls– + carvings in wood by Grimling
Gibbons of Fish,game, Flowers, fruit +c In the Recess over the
chimney piece is a painting on Glass of George III. in his coronation robes. by
JoshReynolds–
Thence to the Grand Stair Case – on to the Grand vestibule 47 ft.long 28
ft. wide + 45 ft. wide high – in wh.
were suits of armour and various military articles – also a curiously
trained root or vine supposed to be rosetree from China ﹏ From this we
passed to the Waterloo Chamber or Grand Dining room – 98 ft. long 45 ft.
high + 47 ft. broad – which is the Depository for the portraits of
eminent men– soveriegns, military commanders who were connected with Battle of Waterloo — In this room King Wm. 4
"
th
gave dinners in honor of the Waterloo Victory –
+ here too he was laid in State – The Paintings are nearly all by
Sir Thomas Laurence –
From this we passed to the "Presence Chamber" or
Grand Reception Room — wh. is 90 ft. long 33 ft. high 34 ft. broad –
A Magnificent Gothic window, filled with plate glass, forms almost the entire
north end – of the room opening on the park + adjacent county (as the
guide says) – but wh. I did not look at – from the crowd +
hurry ﹏ + desire to see what was within – The furniture is
splendid – solidly grandt
gilt + covered with crimson damask – 4
exceedingly rich chandeliers are suspended – composed or–
molic – interspersed with cutglass, branches + pendants
— The walls are hung – with fine specimens of
Gobelin
Tapestry
—
The history of Jason +
the ["Golden"inserted b/c of hole] fleece
—
""/>
s Here –
Tufle
s Windsor Castle
–
From the Presence Chamber – we came to St.
George's, The Grand Banqueting Hall,
200 ft. long, 34 ft. broad + 32 ft. high ﹏ Its dimensions are
princely and the doors, windows +c are finished in oak – There are 13
windows interspersed between wh. on the walls are
armorial bearings of all the Knight of the Garter from the institution of the
Order down to the present time – an elapse of 500 years – On the
opposite side from the windows are Portraits of the last eleven soveriegns of England beginning at James I. +
extending to George 4
"
th
—At the Eastern end of the Hall is the Music
Gallery – beneath which is the soveriegns throne the ascent to wh. is by
Oak steps – The furniture is of oak covered with scarlet plush – The
chair of State is also of oak richly carved, in style similar to the coronation
chair at Westminster Abbie.
The Guard Chamber is 78 ft. long 21 feet wide, . at 1 front end to the other
one end, 26 ft. at the
other + 31 ft. high. This room was filled with the usual weapons of war, armours +c
+c — Also several busts – among wh. was one of the Duke of
Wellington – one of Lord Nelson. The beautiful silver shield inlaid with
gold presented by Francis of France to Henry 8" wh. revolves on a pivot over
the chimney piece – is now exhibition at the World's Fair here in the City ﹏.
From there we went to the " Queen's Presence
Chamber ﹏ The Frescoing is beautiful and the walls are hung with 4
splendid specimens of
Gobelin Tapestry
. being a
continuation of the History of Queen Esther + Mordecai —
Windsor Castle —
It would seem the room was filled up in the reign of Charles II – +
for his Queen Catherine ﹏ There are several portraits – some of
them full length.
From these state apartments we descended to the yard, and then ascended the Round
Tower – from the summit of wh. you can overlook the surrounding country
﹏. It is very fine ﹏ Eton College is
but a little way off – less than a mile I shd. think from the Castle
–. Here the nobility have educated their sons –.
Our guide pointed out to us a little house wh. he said was the birth place of Wm.
Penn founder of Pensylvania U.S.A. ﹏. How
correct he was I cannot say. – From this survey we went to St. Georges Chapel where in our part we found the
remains of the lamented Princess Charlotte – A beautiful monument was
there over her remains
1862 – Continent — July
18
"
th
[vertical mark] Friday Morng.
David E. Holman with Hus. and myself left our rooms 72 Sloan St. London for London Bridge
Station + took Tickets for Paris – There was a great rush
of people, but we succeeded in getting into 1rst Class Car for Folkstown
. + Bologne
– at F. some 83 mls. fr. Lon. took steamer to cross straits of Dover to Bologne – wh.
took 2 hours in crossing
– I prepared myself on the floor of cabin
before the steamer left her moorings – as the sight of piles of white
basons admonished me wht. I might expect – As soon as we steamed off the
stomachs of those who were up– began in great numbers to show them disgust
at Neptune's mode of procedure. One after another was led to Cabin and
prostrated on the floor and were very sick – But I lay quiet and when the
boat ard. at B. I was well as tho. I had been resting on
a
lounge at home. Not so with Hus. He
took lunch, and kept on deck but was very sick + had to lay down with great
numbers there + given his lunch to the fishes — at B. took Bus for station – passing thro. streets of
France Here Napoleon 1. attempted
the invasion ofEngland with an army of 180,000
soldiers – Here
too to combine with fleets he had built
constructed + unite with
Holland + spo but Lord Nelson with Lord Keith
+ Sir Robt Calden presented the junction of Nap's fleets and Ld. Nelson
defeated them at Trafalgar– a mile from the town
is a Colonial to Nap commenting this
of the
Event –
began by his soldi in 1804 the first stone being laind by Marshal soult –
but but was discontinued by the withdrawal of the
troops – + Under Louis 18" it was resumed to Commemorate the
restoration of the Bourbons – but rising to the Revolution of July
1830
it was determined to make it the
monument first designed – + 1841 was dedicated as a monument to Nap.
+ a bronze statue of him surmounts it – I think Nap. 3 was imprisoned here for his premature attempt to
take the throne in 1840. –
our luggage was registerd + went thro. to P.
before Cus. House Officers examined it – we resumed our seats in the cars
+ as I had prayed for traveling companins that cld. speak our language as
well as the French so it they came – a very
pleasant gent + lady – (Eng) – who went thro. to P. A Paris Station where we ard. at 8 1/2 Eve. we
found the superintendant spoke Eng. + helped us thro. the ordeal of getting
luggage thro. Custom H. Off. + put us into cab for the Hotel d'Lille + d Albion – It was a
long drive + showed us something of Paris in the
Eve. On arg. at our Hotel we found a waiter that spoke
good old Saxon to
our joy – we soon were hous keeping in our own
room and at rest for the night — 19
"
th
Sat. morng. found Hus. feeble so we did but little
– but look out Tuiliries + Grounds
– + Place de.
laConcorde wh. unites the Tuilires with Champ Elysees the
grounds are exceedingly beautiful – gardens of flowers– open
promenades bordered with orange + other shrubs by alternating with the
fully shaded groves tht. wld. seat thousands – in comfortable chairs that.
are bt for 2 or 3 sons – In Place de la
Concorde
de is the Obelisk of Luxor from
Egypt wh. is one of two Obelisks tht. stood before
the Temple of Thebes when they were erected 1550 yrs before Christ by Rhames III known in history
as the great Sesostris – These two monoliths were given by Mohamed Ali;
viceroy of Egypt, to the French govt. in consideration
of crn. favor shown to Egpt. Gov in forming
Arsenal + Naval Establishment in Alexandria
– but only one was removed – This Obelisk is formed of the finest
red syenite, + coved on each side with hieroglyphics making 1600 characters
– Height 72 ft – 3 in – bottom of base 7ft 6 in – at top
5 ft. 4 in – wght. 500,000 pounds +
took 3 years to transport it to France
– It stands on a single block of gray granite with 5 block, of the same
for the of wh. the plynth is formed – 2
beautiful
fountain are this obelisk — In the distanc we saw the Triumphal Arch Comd. by Nap.1. + finishd by
Louis Phil. Perhaps there is nothing to equal
to it in the world the views from this place
– I never in any City –
Returg we went to Maurice Hotel to look for
American Names,, but found none we knew – since learned tht other Carpenters family left this morng. for Geneva –. We were soon overtaken by a Mr Smith of U.S.A. but now a
resident of Paris, + Sexton to American Chapel – He accompanied us to Monroe's where Americans record their names
–
P.M. Hus. + I went to
